Chemical Exfoliation Mechanics: AHAs, BHAs, and Next-Gen PHAs (Engineering Review 2013)
Clinical Dermocosmetology & Exfoliation Science · Cosmetic Engineering & Science
Chemical peeling agents loosen corneocyte desmosomes, accelerating turnover without mechanical abrasion.
Engineering Mechanism & Kinetic Flowchart
Glycolic Acid & Calcium Ion Chelation
Glycolic acid disrupts cell-to-cell adhesion by chelating calcium ions required for cadherin-mediated desmosome function, triggering uniform desquamation and stimulating dermal fibroblast glycosaminoglycan synthesis.
Salicylic Acid Folliculotropism
As a lipophilic beta-hydroxy acid, salicylic acid penetrates lipid-filled pilosebaceous units, liquefying comedogenic keratin plugs while delivering intrinsic anti-inflammatory effects via prostaglandin inhibition.
Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs) for Compromised Skin
Gluconolactone and Lactobionic Acid feature high molecular weights and multiple hydroxyl groups, absorbing atmospheric water while penetrating gently layer-by-layer without triggering neurosensory burning.
Prof. Cristiano Ricardo
Pharmacist-Biochemist · Specialist in Cosmetic Engineering & Dermato-Pharmacology · Published on May 14, 2013 at 18:32
Pharmacist-Biochemist · Specialist in Cosmetic Engineering & Dermato-Pharmacology · Published on May 14, 2013 at 18:32
